Friday, November 14, 2008

Further explorations of Mendoza

We are constantly amazed how quickly we begin to feel comfortable in a city. Last night, after just 2 days and one overnight, it felt like we had been here in Mendoza long enough to feel at home. What fickle lovers we are! BsAs is almost a has been. Though it will probably only take a small taste to win us over again.
Yesterday we rented a car to explore the Alta Montana...the high mountains. The maps they give you, show an easy drive that one can do in a nice pace and enjoy. We, of course, had to do the most complete circuit...no travelling twice on the same road. So, we took what was called the "old road to Chile" from an abandoned thermal bath place called Villavincencio. We had asked if the road was paved...and it was...up until Villavincencio. After that, I think the translation of "paved" is "not a footpath". Beyond as we drove into the foothills higher and higher, we read it was called "the years road" as it had 365 turns in it. That was certainly no exaggeration. First gear most of the way on roads that were full of potholes, gravel and fallen rocks, and through desert scenery including blooming cacti. But the views were wonderful...blue sky, sun and vistas across miles and miles of foothills. Thank God for my Swiss chauffer! We hardly saw another car until we reached the point where we got our first glimpse of Aconcagua..the tallest mountain outside the Himalayas, snowcovered and majestic. Finally we came out of the "camino sinoso" and onto straighter gravel roads and then finally rejoined the paved highway at Uspallata. We still had a hundred km to go to get to where one could walk in and gaze at Aconcagua from where the climbers start off.
And what a wonderful drive it is even there. The foothills are massive rocks of many colours that loom above the highway, punctuated by valleys the hold the red, roiling waters that race down from the Andes. There arent many cars on this main highway that is the new road to the Chilean Border...but there are a million trucks. All of which end up in lines waiting to cross the border, on each side of the tunnel that replaces what used to be a road full of switchbacks. We measured one line almost 2 km long. Jurg wanted to drive as close as possible to Chile so he could look down and see if he could see into the plains below...Sue, faint of heart, with visions of military shooting tourists without proper papers...forced him to turn back partway up the second line of trucks. At least he got to talk to 2 truckers when we turned around..they said it was at least 5 to 7 hrs they would have to wait before getting to customs..and this was the second lineup they had been in.
Anyways, we did get to do the walk up to Cerro Anconcagua...a 2 km hike from the parking lot at an elevation of 3100 meters. It was a slow walk..one got a cardio workout just by being there. But, a great view of the mountain and its 300 meter thick glacier that covers part of the south side.
On the drive home, Jurg got to put the pedal to the metal.. we had to be back by 8 pm and all our adventures had taken more time than we thought. After an unexpected, poorly marked construction detour, a stop by the Argentinian police to check papers, and several slowdowns behind old diesel trucks...we did make it back at 7:30.
Just a comment on driving here in Argentina. I am sure to get your drivers license, you need to pass a written test, a driving test and an intuition test. In the cities, most streets are 1 way with only the major ones having 2 way traffic. Stop signs are almost unknown and traffic lights are used sparingly. Which means, when you approach an intersection, you have to use the "slow down and guess" approach. In Canada, we might call it playing chicken. As there is generally only traffic from 1 other direction that part is not so bad. But, the pedestrians, and cyclists work from a policy of seeing rules only as guidelines. ...I cant believe that we havent seen one accident or dead pedestrian so far. This is amazing as well, in that half the people dont turn their lights on either, and the cyclists have no reflectors or lights or helmets. One has to throw in a whole bunch of scooters, buses, and trucks just to add to the picture. Oh, and I also saw a donkey cart here in Mendoza. By the way, the traffic lights are only for the cars...they dont have pedestrian lights that you can see...again you guess when you should cross. I am just thankful they drive on the right side of the road.

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