Like all good love stories, they must begin with an introduction of sorts. Ours was a bit fumbled at first...mulling over guidebooks, opening and closing maps...trying to make sense of a personality we didn´t quite understand. We went to Recolleta Cemetary...a true city of the dead...all housed in a great variety of little mausoleums and churches...including Jurg´s current favorite...Eva Peron.
And then the best intro of all, a mutual friend volunteered to show us BsAs. Steven Hansen a former Guelphite who has lived here for 10 years was easily bought for the introduction day....food was the bribe to get him to reveal all the secrets he knew about BsAs. First lunch and he shared the easy secrets...how to get around the city, what to eat, the basic language that would at least get BsAs to be somewhat open to us. Then a little bit of hard slogging...walking around her neighbourhoods by foot...checking out the basics- cathedrals, buildings, beautiful pedestrian streets filled with shops. With more comfort, he invited us to explore his neighbourhood...Palermo Viejo- cafe´s, parks, quirks. Then a more intimate time...we invited him to our place to show him what we had at the Ayres de Palermo: our beautiful suite with 2 bathrooms. Then we offered dinner...at a parilla...over a bottle of Malbec and Argentinian steaks he told us so much about BsAs...stories about the politics, the down and dirty little secrets that really help you get to know a potential lover. And we were still eager for more.
So today, we took her on by ourselves...we explored her subways, travelled on buses, indulged in the markets of San Telmo with the artisans and antiques. Feasted at several cafe´s, holdovers from her most gracious days of the early 1900´s. She maybe aging and her beauty somewhat tarnished but it is there for us to see if we take the time. We are so impressed by her clothing of greenery...streets shaded by trees and lined by houses with iron balconies that speak to a gracious life long gone. We are constantly helped by the Portenos...who offer us advice without being asked. Several have approached me to say "watch your camera"...so far no one has tried to grab it!
From San Telmo we went to the seamier side...La Boca...where we luxuriated in street Tango Shows and the great drama of the soccer fans streaming to the stadium to watch Boca Juniors playing San Lorenzo...even the Swat teams were on standby. And not chancing her darker side, we of course had travelled there by taxi.
But we get glimpses of a darker side that we are reluctant to explore...tales of shanty towns that exist under the expressways, side streets that we are warmed not to walk. And as we sat at a cafe in the beautiful Puerto Madero area, a dirty little waif who pointed to Jurg´s chocolate cookie (they always serve cookies with coffee here)..and raced away when he gave it to her. And lucky us, we were able to banish our hunger at a dockside restaurant with more steaks and wine and excellent service. BsAs has such class!
So we are hooked...we are falling in love...in spite of the dangers. Like all lovers, we emphasize the good and ignore the potential pitfalls. We want so much more from BsAs and we still have 2 days to explore her.
The cast of characters...is interesting...the business man we met at the airport who was carrying $20,000 US in his pockets as he felt the times here are so uncertain. The political corruption he described was horrendous. Steven who lives outside the consumer society, and says BsAs takes all his money just to live...even the restaurants are way beyond his salary. A 150 peso dinner is far too much when you may only earn 1500 peso´s a month ( 1 US $=3.3 pesos). The guard at the museum who was from India and whose sister lives in Surrey BC. Argentina was the wrong choice for him...he barely survives on his salary and can´t get to Canada as he can´t get a Visa anymore, even for a visit. All these people talk about the time the money was overnight reduced to 1/3 it´s value and how now inflation is increasing..prices have risen recently another 1/3 or so.
What a demanding lover this city is! For those who can´t get away...she keeps you penniless and at her mercy and yet offers such art and music and intoxicating lifestyle that you are not sure you want to get away.
Some people risk everything here...Puerto Madero is filled with new condo buildings, restaurants, shops and the Portenos who love to walk and bask in the sun with their lovers and families...so dynamic and connected compared to Canada. But we wonder who can afford all of this stuff.
So, we have booked our last 3 days before we leave back here as well...can´t get enough of BsAs...
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